Pro-Aging Skincare Guide: Keeping Maturing Skin Happy and Healthy
As a Doctor of Acupuncture & Chinese Medicine with over two decades of experience, I've seen first hand how a holistic approach to skincare can transform not just our appearance, but our overall well-being. Today, let's shift our perspective from "anti-aging" to "pro-aging," focusing on longevity and skin health. Here's my guide to maintaining vibrant, healthy skin as you age.
The Essentials of Pro-Aging Skincare
Simplicity is Your Best Friend
In my years of practice, I've found that a mostly non-toxic stay out of the sun approach can be incredibly effective. Here are some of my non-negotiables:
- Regarding washing, less is more, wash your face with oil, or skip it altogether, fyi anything that suds up strips natural oils.
- Use clays and muds to purify, exfoliate, and re-mineralize the skin.
- Make your own toner with spring water and herbal teas, use instead of tap water.
- Spritz your face to counter environmental dryness.
- Serum is your best friend, make it a power packed one.
- Try to eschew alcohol, it dehydrates the skin. Inhaled drugs also affect the skin in unwanted ways.
- Stay out of the sun, or at least that cute face of yours. Want some Vit D? sure how about on your arms and legs?
- Lastly, sleep on your back :)) easier said than done.
- Sunscreen sunscreen sunscreen…okay, a lot to say below
Lifestyle Habits for Radiant Skin
Remember, true skin health starts from within. Prioritize these habits:
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Quality sleep: Aim for 7+ hours, preferably on your back to prevent sleep lines. WHEN you sleep matters a lot. We are circadian creatures. Try being in bed by ten for the biggest hit of human growth hormone (HGH) while you sleep. It stimulates cell reproduction and regeneration slowing the aging process. So going to bed early is key, and waking up with the sun. Your whole being will thank you. Skin included.
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Sun protection: Beyond sunscreen, wear protective clothing and seek shade. I would go for a Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30+):
This is your first line of defense against premature aging. My fav is Blooming Effects SPF 50, which I reapply on the regular and have a bottle at home, in my car and at the office.
Obsessed? Yes, how you age is 20% genetics and 80% on you, and sun damage is the biggest offender.
Another fav is La Roche Posay SPF 50+ Uvmune 400. It's not available in the US but ask anyone going to Europe to grab a bottle or 3 and save it for a day of max sun exposure, skiing, beaching or day drinking in the sun if that's your thing.
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Nourishing diet: Incorporate plenty of seafood, fruits, vegetables, probiotic-rich foods like kimchee and kefir, and plant based fats like seeds, nuts and oils like organic extra virgin olive oil and avocado oil for a happy gut and skin, they are so connected!
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Regular exercise: Try strength and resistance training, which can help maintain skin firmness, while moving blood and lymph.
Boosting Skin Elasticity
Maintaining your skin's bounce and elasticity is crucial as you age. Consider:
- Collagen-boosting treatments: Such as microcurrent stimulation and microneedling.
- Estradiol cream: It's for vaginas but I use it on my face to increase skin thickness, elasticity and hydration. You may need to feign vaginal dryness for Rx but you didn't hear that from me. If you think this might be for you, check with your health care team.
Addressing Specific Skin Concerns
Dark Spots
In Chinese medicine dark spots are associated with stuck energy. Does vigorous exercise even out your complexion? If so, great! Exercise is your friend, it even lowers your chance of getting breast cancer! So one more reason to get those sneakers on when we want to sit on the sofa. Guilty here on this one.
If you want to use a product to even out your tone, Dr Hauschka Tinted Day Cream is the OG, such a classic - it's nourishing and also reasonably priced.
Eastern europeans are genius with organic skin care, so Danke schön. This product is thick so ideal for Fall/winter weather when an extra dose of moisture is needed.
For an intervention, consider professional treatments like IPL for stubborn spots. Know that little black spots, like coffee grounds will be stuck on your face for 6-10 days, so plan accordingly. (It is also a bit like being tortured.)
Wrinkles and Texture
- Retinoids are your best friend here. And 100% dermatologist approved, voluminous search for improved skin quality and anti cancer action, it's Vit A after all. That said, I don't use it b/c it gives the skin a bit of a artificial look i don't love.
- For dynamic wrinkles I am fan of using acupuncture in conjunction with facial massage and microcurrent stimulation. This will not make wrinkles go 100% away but it will soften them for a warm and approachable look.
- Let's be real, too much of a good thing can be a bad thing, think some mainstream anti-aging techniques.
- Recently my 17 year old son said the faces of his friends' moms scared him. Can you imagine going so far with your anti-aging work (or starting too early) you scare your own children, and their friends too? :(( Opt for natural solutions like acupuncture, massage and micro current and if botox & fillers is your thing chose a doctor with great restraint. Less is more, always.
Laxity and Crepiness
- Various devices and treatments can address mild to moderate sagging, I have found microcurrent to be amazing. There are a number of home devices and I offer high-octane treatments in my clinic.
Dullness
Skin dullness in Chinese medicine is from a condition called blood deficiency. What does this mean for you? It means you want to conserve your energy, not overextending yourself and eat nourishing food like: red meat, leafy greens, black beans or roasted beets. Also focussing on hydration in the form of warm drinks like teas, sans sugar.
If you want to exfoliate, opt for gentle exfoliation of a mashed up banana or an avocado, easy right? Convenient yes, cheap yes👍 done and done.
After splash your face with room temp chamomile tea and serum, gua sha on a slick face, for a how to click here. After use whatever moisturizer you have lying around the house to lock in all the goodness. no fuss.
What to Avoid in Your Skincare Journey
- Preemptive treatments: Don't rush into injectables or surgery before you truly need them.
- Overcomplicated routines: More products doesn't always mean better results. It actually can be counter productive, too harsh and disruptive to your skin's own microbiome.
- Trend-chasing: Focus on what works for your unique skin, not the latest fad.
Professional Treatments: A Thoughtful Approach
If you're considering professional treatments:
- Go for a look that is an approximation of a rested, relaxed you, not an aesthetic that will scare young people and leave your face frozen. Go up market- like half priced sushi, bargain hunting is not advised.
- Natural treatments like acupuncture, microcurrent, microneedling and lymphatic drainage harness the body's own energy for looking younger and more vibrant.
- It requires some upkeep like going to the gym, but really you deserve a well-considered, non-toxic approach that's in line with how you live.
Building Your Pro-Aging Skincare Routine
Here's a simple yet effective routine to get you started:
- Cleanse with a gentle, hydrating cleanser - I like ozonated castor oil, with 3 drops of lavender essential oil mixed into the whole jar. I leave it on for 5 mins and wipe it off with a warm, wet face cloth.
- Wait, until oil is absorbed, splash face with a homemade toner of room temp chamomile tea or rose blossom tea.
- Apply a serum to wet face, if poss mix the serum with the toner in your hand emulsifying it. Apply to skin with a gentle pressing motion.
- Massage or Gua sha face (click here for posts on how to do).
- Add moisturizer.
- For day - Finish with broad-spectrum sunscreen for mineral SPF I like Blooming Effect, or La Roche Posay Anthelios Uvmune 400 SPF 50+.
Remember, aging is a natural, beautiful process. Our goal is to help your skin look and feel its healthiest at every stage of life. This approach not only enhances your appearance but also contributes to your overall well-being. By embracing these pro-aging strategies, you're not just caring for your skin – you're nurturing your whole self. Here's to radiant, healthy skin at every age!